Kyoto by the Sea: Oni Trail Adventure – 8 Days ATS-005

Kyoto to Fukuchiyama & Oe

Your legendary folk monster adventure begins with a chartered bus from Kyoto to the historic castle town of Fukuchiyama, where you’ll meet your expert local guide. Transfer to the charming mountain town of Oe, legendary home of Shuten-doji, the most famous Oni in Japanese folklore – a giant, powerful folk monster who ruled these mystical mountains.

After a hearty lunch of “Oni Soba” (folk monster noodles) at a traditional mountain restaurant, begin your first trek along the ancient Miyazu Kaido highway. Visit the mystical Motoise shrines – the original locations of Ise Grand Shrine before it moved to its current home. Your path leads through the sacred Himuro-gakate to the mysterious Ame-no-iwato (Heavenly Rock Cave) shrine.

End your day exploring the unique Museum of Oni and Japanese Folk Monsters, before checking into Green Lodge, your base camp nestled in the mountains where these legendary creatures once roamed.

Accommodation: Green Lodge – A cozy mountain retreat surrounded by legendary peaks

* Depart from the charter bus boarding area at Hachijo Exit Charter Bus Stop

*  Meet guide at Oe Station, briefing

*  Lunch at Oeyama Restaurant – “Oni Soba”

*  Hike begins: Miyazu Kaido, Motoise Outer Shrine, Motoise Inner Shrine, Nissage-dake, Ame-no-iwato Shrine

*  Motoise Inner Shrine, Busshoji Village, Futase River Valley, Old & New Miyazu Kaido, Shin-doji Bridge, Oni’s Footprint, Raiko’s Resting Stone

*  Museum of Oni and Japanese folk monsters

*  Check-in at Green Lodge

*  Dinner (BBQ option available for groups of 5+)

Conquering the Oeyama Range

Rise before dawn for an unforgettable experience – watching the sunrise from Onitake Inari Shrine while sipping coffee above a sea of clouds. This mystical moment sets the tone for today’s epic ridge traverse of the legendary Oeyama mountain range, home to Shuten-doji and his band of mischievous Oni.

Begin your ascent through primeval forests to reach Senjogatake (Thousand-Jo Peak), the highest point in the realm of these legendary folk monsters. Continue along the dramatic ridgeline to Hatogamine (Dove Peak), where ancient legends say the Oni held their councils. The mountain traverse offers spectacular panoramic views across the Sea of Japan and inland valleys.

Enjoy a traditional “Oni-giri” lunch box (folk monster rice balls) at the Nabetsuka rest station before completing your descent. Tonight, experience authentic mountain hospitality at Kaya Yamanoie, where the owner-chef creates exceptional meals using local ingredients, followed by storytelling around a traditional fire.

Accommodation: Kaya Yamanoie – An intimate mountain guesthouse with legendary hospitality

*  Sunrise viewing at Onitake Inari Shrine (by car)

*  Coffee with cloud sea views

*  Return to lodge for breakfast

*  Transfer to Onitake Inari by car

*  Hike begins: Oeyama Range traverse

*  Shuten-doji Memorial Tower via Senjogatake summit

*  Hatogamine summit

*  Nabetsuka rest station – lunch with Oni-giri bento

*  Nabetsuka summit

*  Ikeganaru trailhead, support vehicle pickup

*  Check-in at Kaya Yamanoie

*  Dinner by former professional chef using local ingredients

*  Relax around the fire

From Mountain Peaks to Castle Towns

Complete your traverse of the Oni mountains with a morning hike through the legendary Oni-no-iwaya (Monster’s Cave) and past an active air traffic control tower – a surreal contrast of ancient legends and modern life. The trail follows sections of the historic Miyazu Kaido, once traveled by samurai and merchants.

Descend through mountain villages to reach Kita Station, where you’ll board a local train to the historic port city of Miyazu. This former castle town retains much of its traditional atmosphere, with narrow streets lined with merchant houses and sake breweries.

Check into the historic Seikirou ryokan, a traditional inn that houses a remarkable private art collection. Your host will provide a personal guided tour of their “little museum” – a treasure trove of local history and culture. Evening options include dinner at the inn or an optional guided pub crawl through Miyazu’s atmospheric backstreets.

Accommodation: Seikirou – Historic ryokan with private art collection in castle town setting

*  Breakfast

*  Lodge shuttle to Ikeganaru trailhead

*  Hike begins: Oeyama traverse, Oni’s Cave, Air Traffic Control Tower, Miyazu Kaido

*  Chayaganaru

*  Train to Miyazu Station

*  Arrive Miyazu Station

*  Lunch in station area & walk to accommodation through historic castle town (15 min)

*  Check-in at Seikirou

*  Private guided tour of inn’s “little museum” (30 min)

*  Dinner at inn or optional evening pub crawl

Amanohashidate and Nariai-ji Temple

Today’s adventure centers on one of Japan’s three most scenic views – Amanohashidate (Heaven’s Bridge), a mystical 3.6-kilometer sandbar covered in ancient pine trees. Begin with a morning walk across this natural wonder, visiting Chion-ji Temple and the unique rotating bridge that allows boats to pass.

Board a traditional sightseeing boat to cross Miyazu Bay, then embark on a pilgrimage hike up the sacred Nariaiji-temple. This temple, the 28th station of the Kansai 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, houses remarkable scrolls depicting the Shuten-doji legend and offers panoramic views over Amanohashidate.

Enjoy lunch with mountain views before descending via cable car or hiking trail to Kasamatsu Park. End your day with a relaxing soak in natural hot springs while reflecting on the spiritual significance of this sacred landscape.

Accommodation: Seikirou – Historic ryokan with private art collection

*  Breakfast

*  Hike begins

*  Miyazu city central, Amanohashidate Chion-ji Temple, rotating bridge, pine grove, Amanohashidate Shrine

*  Fuchu boat station

*  Honzakado trail, 33 Kannon Pilgrimage site #28 Nariai-san Nariai-ji Temple, five-story pagoda, observation deck, viewing Shuten-doji scrolls in temple hall

*  Lunch with bento or descent for local restaurant lunch. Walking or mountain bus to Kasamatsu Park, cable car descent

*  Sightseeing boat to Amanohashidate Monju area

*  Arrive Monju

*  Hot spring bathing: Chie-no-yu or Amanohashidate Hotel public bath

*  Support vehicle to accommodation

*  Check-in at Seikirou

*  Dinner at inn or optional evening pub crawl

Mountain Ridges and Hidden Villages

Embark on one of Japan’s most spectacular mountain drives – the Tango Jukan Forest Road, known locally as the “Sky Highway.” This high-altitude route offers breathtaking panoramic views as you traverse ridge after ridge through pristine mountain wilderness.

Your hiking adventure includes a peak-bagging ascent around Tsuzumi-ga-take (569m), followed by exploration of the remote Kamisoya village – one of Japan’s most beautiful mountain settlements. This traditional community maintains centuries-old crafts including hand-made paper, wisteria weaving, and wild game processing.

Visit local artisans in their workshops, and learn about sustainable mountain living. End your day at Kigo Farm Pension, a working farm where you’ll experience authentic rural Japanese hospitality and farm-to-table cuisine.

Accommodation: Kigo Farm Pension – Working farm with authentic rural experience

*  Breakfast

*  Support vehicle transfer

*  Nariai-san Nariai-ji Temple hike start, Panorama observation deck, ancient cedars

*  Tango Forest Road “SKY HIGH WAY” (around Tsuzumi-ga-take ±569m), support vehicle to lunch from Kigo-Kamiseya Junction

*  Return to Kigo-Kamiseya Junction for Dake yama peak hunt 4km, or support vehicle for Kamisoya village exploration & visits:

*  Paper-making workshop Itowokashi

*  Wisteria weaving Nonono

*  Kamisoya Wild Game Shop

*  Kohachi Beer Works (Visit one of the above)

*  16:00 – Check-in at Kigo Farm Pension

*  18:30 – Dinner

Ancient Pathways and Craft Distilleries

Begin with a challenging forest road hike through the Komakura area, following ancient pathways once used by mountain villagers and pilgrims. The trail leads through dense forests and past hidden shrines to the dramatic Noma Valley.

Descend into this legendary gorge via the historic Noma-tebori tunnel – a hand-carved passage through solid rock that showcases the determination of mountain communities. Explore the crystal-clear streams and discover the ruins of the Kumatani family homestead, abandoned when the village was relocated.

Your day concludes with a visit to Mairingen Distillery, a craft gin distillery that uses local botanicals to create unique spirits inspired by the mountain environment. Stay overnight at either the mountaintop Hotel Kaze-no-Gakko or the luxury Kissuien resort.

Accommodation: Hotel Kaze-no-Gakko (mountaintop retreat) or Kissuien (luxury resort)

*  Breakfast

*  Hike start: Komakura forest road

*  Support vehicle from Kosugi intersection to Noma Valley entrance

*  Lunch: bento or local restaurants (Nomatei or Tenpu)

*  Sukawa Valley ancient path hike, Noma-tebori tunnel, valley streams, Kumatani single household ruins

*  Arrive Swiss Village

*  Mairingen Distillery (craft gin distillery) visit

*  Check-in at Hotel Kaze-no-Gakko or transfer to Kissuien in Kyotango

*  Dinner at accommodation or nearby izakaya

Pastoral Plateaus and Ocean Views

Today’s adventure takes you through the pristine Ikari Highlands, a vast pastoral plateau that feels more like the Scottish Highlands than traditional Japan. This elevated grassland offers 360-degree mountain views and a chance to experience Japan’s ranching culture.

Enjoy an outdoor cooking experience or hearty steak lunch while surrounded by grazing cattle and mountain vistas. The afternoon brings you to Ukawa Onsen Yoshino-no-Sato, a traditional hot spring resort where you can soak in mineral-rich waters while gazing out at the Sea of Japan.

Alternative accommodation includes the renowned Totoya ryokan in the Taiza area, famous for its winter crab cuisine and dramatic coastal location. Your evening meal celebrates the mountain-to-sea transition with fresh seafood and local specialties.

Accommodation: Ukawa Onsen Yoshino-no-Sato or Totoya (luxury coastal ryokan)

*  Breakfast

*  Walking begins

*  Ikari Highlands – lunch with outdoor cooking or steakhouse

*  Arrive Ukawa Onsen Yoshino-no-Sato, check-in or bathing only, then support vehicle to Taiza area accommodations

*  Ukawa Onsen Yoshino-no-Sato

*  Totoya

*  Dinner

Final Ascent to Victory

Your final day brings the triumphant conclusion of your 100-kilometer Oni Trail journey. Begin with a coastal walk that reveals dramatic sea cliffs, hidden beaches, and ancient burial mounds that speak to thousands of years of human habitation.

Pass the fascinating Onaru Kofun (ancient tomb) and the roadside station Tenkitenki before reaching your ultimate destination – the magnificent Tateiwa standing stones. These 20-meter-tall natural rock pillars rising from the sea create one of Japan’s most dramatic coastal scenes and serve as the perfect finish line for your epic adventure.

Celebrate your achievement with a final lunch at a local seaside restaurant before visiting Takeno Shrine for a traditional purification ceremony. Complete your journey at the Kishinzuka (Demon God Mound), where successful 100km finishers receive commemorative gifts.

Final Celebration: 100km completion ceremony with commemorative gifts

*  Breakfast

*  Walking begins

*  Taisei Ancient Tomb, Tenkitenki roadside station, GOAL: Tateiwa standing stones

*  Final lunch at local restaurant (Kikuo Shokudo or Hisami or Toei )

*  Takeno Shrine purification ceremony, Kishinzuka visit

*  100km completion commemorative gift presentation

*  Oni Trail 100km guided tour completion

*  Chartered bus transfer to Kyoto station